Umi Nom: Fun with Philo-Thai Fare
Posted on 01. Jul, 2011 by Thaddaeus Pera in Hill Top Reviews
Dine at Umi Nom and you’ll experience something akin to the union of a nightclub and a family gathering. Atmospherics are hip and plush with earth-tones and mirror-reflected lighting, while the close proximity of your fellow patrons feels cozy and gives the room a jovial buzz. The flavors are unique, verging on the experimental, but the menu is fit for a good ole fashion grub-down: exhibit A—bar-b-que ribs marinated in oyster sauce, lemongrass, garlic and ginger.
As a high-value hot spot located on Dekalb and Grand, Umi Nom is carving out its own distinct place in the culinary landscape of New York, garnering accolades from the New York Times, NY Magazine, and Time Out. Following on the success of Kuma Inn on the lower east side, Chef King Phojanakong’s personal vision marries authentic culinary adventure with a loyal adherence to the Thai and Filipino food traditions he grew up with – savory flush, deep spice and seductive sweet expertly weaved into original creations. Staples such as the Shrimp Pad Thai are prepared with care and pride, but conventional tastes are happily thwarted with dishes like the Thai beef salad with green papaya, long beans, cherry tomatoes, peanut; or the Ma-Banh beef tapa: fried, thin sliced dried beef with smoked chili sauce.
Indeed, a New Yorker through and through, Chef Phojanakong is the son a Filipino mother and a Thai father. He learned to prize the communal and cultural nature of cooking during his travels to the Philippines as a youth and was able to bolster his chops training under Chef Daniel Boulud at Restaurant Daniel and Chef David Bouley at Bouley Bakery and the Danube. Moonlighting as a DJ and Latin jazz guitarist, King is no stranger to a party and this celebratory, non-denominational attitude towards food is evident in the fact that the fish-n-chips, the original British fast food, are sold out many nights of the week at this Pan-Asian eatery.
Hearty portion size provides another nod to the full-hearted style of the good Chef. Minimizing your order will keep your meal refined and memorable rather than overly-flavored and gluttonous. If you’re dining in a small group it’s advisable to share like a family and order as you go. Split no more than two or three small plates otherwise you’ll be gasping for air when the main dish hits the table. As a starter, the chili glazed prawns will definitely pique, rather than sate, your hunger; but the sweet and sour calamari is found a bit rubbery most nights. Devilish temptations abound such as the pan-roasted salmon with coconut basil green curry. And the Dai Bao sliders made from ground beef, pork sausage and house pickles will have you guzzling that beer you brought yourself (although expect to be able to drink from the bar soon, pending liquor license approval). Overall, a little guttural restraint will greatly improve the experience and keep you curious on your next visit; a word to the wise, ask your server which dishes pair well together.
You don’t need a Facebook account to appreciate the social presence at Umi Nom. The view into the kitchen allows everyone to glimpse the life of the production process and a long bench-seat, modeled after the community dining style from the Philippines, fits a surprisingly large number of people close enough together for everyone to take in all the sights, smells, and sounds of the evening without cramping anyone’s style. A great find on the Clinton Hill/ Bed-Stuy border for many reasons, not the least of which is the size of the check, probably the only underwhelming aspect of your night, thankfully.
Umi Nom, 433 DeKalb Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11205, 718.789.8806, www.uminom.com. Hours: daily for lunch 11:30am–3pm, dinner 6–11pm. Closed Sundays.
