Hilltop Review: Il Porto & Mojito
Posted on 09. Aug, 2009 by Keith Flanders in Hill Top Reviews
At some point during the Hamptons real estate run-up a term was coined to differentiate the highly desirable coastal property from South Hampton to Montauk from the less fashionable areas north: “South of the Highway.” The same may be said about Fort Greene/Clinton Hill/Wallabout, if the highway in question is the BQE rather than Route 27. To the north, between Park Avenue and the Navy Yard, you’ll no doubt find some fine residences including the converted chocolate factory on Park and Washington, and a few interesting retail establishments (the collectibles emporium Re-Pop for instance, the relatively new Vespa showroom, and The Spa, Body by Brooklyn), but in terms of dining – this writer’s raison d‚etre – it’s slim pickings.
The notable exceptions, however, are well worth visiting, and they both happen to be in Wallabout, on Washington Avenue between Park and Flushing, delightful bookends on an otherwise drab block of mysterious industry.
Il Porto
Last time we dined at Il Porto they were in the midst of receiving a delivery of fuel for the pizza oven. It was quite a sight, watching them shovel a truckload of hardwood down into the basement, and they certainly put it to good use, turning out extraordinarily good thin-crust pizzas ranging from the traditional (margarita, marinara, bianca) to the more cutting edge (one of my favorites, the Al Diavolo, features broccoli rabe, sausage, hot cherry peppers and fresh mozzarella). There’s even a “dessert” pizza called the Wallabout, an unusual assemblage (for a pizza) which includes Nutella spread, toasted pinenuts and marshmallows. Although I haven’t personally sampled the Wallabout, a trusted source assured me it’s an unusual winner. If its “traditional” pizza you’re looking for (i.e. thicker crust, by the slice, etc) they do a fine job of that as well, selling it from the takeout side of the establishment which connects to the airy, high-ceilinged dining room/bar area. And they deliver in the area.
What I found interesting and appealing about Il Porto is that besides top-notch pizza and pasta dishes, like the deceptively simple and delicious Penne Il Porto which features shrimp and asparagus in a traditional pink vodka cream sauce, the menu also embraces that New York City standby known as brunch, which few diners I think would normally associate with a brick-over pizza restaurant. As a parent of two children who quite literally would eat nothing but pizza or pasta outside of the house, I found it challenging to please them on a Sunday morning while at the same time satisfying my own craving for eggs & bacon. The solution lay a short walk “north of the highway,” and I urge you to try Il Porto for its eggs Benedict, omelets, and especially a tender, tasty amazing something called crabmeat pancake, which comes with eggs and a mesclun salad, making it at $9 one of the most delectable brunch values I’ve ever found.
Il Porto, 37 Washington Avenue, 718-624-0954
Dinner: every day, 4PM – 11PM • Lunch: Mon-Sat 11AM – 4PM • Brunch: Sundays 11AM – 4 PM
Mojito
On the opposite side of the street, in the impressively restored chocolate factory at 275 Park Avenue, there sits an oasis, but instead of a spring flowing out of the desert it’s mojitos served up in Mason jars at Mojito, an atmospheric and authentic (I think; how would I know, not being able to visit our Caribbean island neighbor?) Cuban bistro. An online reviewer who professes to be from Cuba and “know the real deal,” praised Mojito for its authenticity, and I’m not going to argue, since everything I’ve tasted there is terrific, from the toasted bread with its 3 dipping sauces to the tostones rellenos, to standbys like arroz con pollo and the Cuban sandwich. More exciting are offerings like pollo varadero: a char-grillled garlic-lemon chicken breast which comes with rice & beans and crispy potato strips. I know it sounds basic, but make no mistake; the flavor is out of this world. If you like pork, the pernil is not to be missed: marinated in garlic and slow roasted with just the right amount of onion and seasoning. Whatever you order, be sure to add a side dish of those sweet, sticky ripe plantains called maduros.
Atmosphere as well as food is taken seriously at Mojito, with moody lighting and music set off by Cuban décor designed by someone with a flair for transporting guests to another place and time, one which adds greatly to one’s enjoyment of the meal. At the bar you will find enough rum choices to keep Papa Hemingway busy for weeks or at least days, and the signature drink is truly excellent (mojitos may be all the rage, but they’re not that easy to make well, as you may know, loyal readers!).
So unless you happen to possess a passport issued by, well, any country other than the good old USA, you’ll have to get your dose of Habana closer to home, and I strongly encourage you to do so at Mojito.
Planning a dinner out in or around The Hill is a delightful challenge, no question about it. On DeKalb Avenue alone you can dine out every night of the week and still have leftover choices, let alone on Fulton or Myrtle. But next time you do, consider heading “north of the highway.” You won’t be sorry!
Mojito, 82 Washington Avenue, 718-797-3100
Mon-Thurs Noon-11PM • Fri-Sat Noon-Midnight • Sun 11AM – 11PM
