Around The World in 80 Minutes
Posted on 25. Jan, 2010 by Keith Flanders in Hill Top Reviews
“Autour Du Monde” is an apt phrase in the lives of Olivier Jimenez and Pauline Abd-el-Kader, who met in St. Maarten and literally traveled “around the world” to such far-flung places as Nepal, the Caribbean, Thailand, India and Morocco, eventually landing in Brooklyn and bringing with them a taste and love for world cuisine. And those of us Hill-dwellers who enjoy such fare but are slightly more home-bound are very glad they did, because they brought us their lovely Autour Du Monde. Located on the corner of Fulton Street and Clinton Avenue, the menu inludes eclectic bistro food with a truly global flair, and does so with simple, gracious service. When we dined on a recent Sunday evening, Olivier himself served the entire meal; it was much like being his personal guests at some faraway vacation home (he even mixed the martinis!). Meanwhile in the kitchen, a talented someone – I don’t know if was Executive Chef Frank Coe or a gifted sous chef (or perhaps Pauline herself?) – turned out marvelous dishes like roasted duck confit, falling off the bone over French lentils with fig and orange zest, and roast pear and brie in a delicate phyllo crust. Even the shell steak, a bistro standard that can tend toward the dull, or worse, if inexpertly handled, was a delight, grilled to perfection with fries that proclaimed the high quality of their cooking oil.
The menu changes with the seasons, many ingredients coming as they do from local suppliers, so I can’t guarantee you’ll be offered the same items as I was, but other standout dishes included a lamb shank with roasted turnips and sea scallops with some sort of indescribable and deliciously subtle beurre blanc. And vegetarians need not go hungry at Autour Du Monde: “veggie cakes” come with cilantro and coconut chutney, or try the Flavors of the Orient vegetarian stir-fry seaweed noodles.
Desserts are not to be missed; we sampled four, the bread pudding being perhaps the weakest offering with a slightly dry disposition, but the cardamom crème brulee was outstanding, as was the chocolate mousse with its roof of slivered almonds. The term “cheesecake” does the fourth dessert a disservice, as it includes mascarpone and yogurt and with its amazing texture bears no resemblance to the old standard.
Olivier and Pauline’s philosophy is to focus on keeping Autour du Monde an intimate, continuously excellent and exciting dining experience, and to focus on the details. As Olivier says, “you can’t chase 3 rabbits at the same time,” and their dedication to their restaurant certainly shows. Stop by for dinner or Sunday brunch soon, and go around the world in 80 minutes!
Autour du Monde is located at 860 Fulton Street, corner of Fulton Street and Clinton Ave. Open for dinner every night and Sunday brunch, phone 718-398-3500.
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